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Blue and White Parti-colored 14th Century Clothes for Signy and Cuan

updated ?

A man and woman wearing blue and white 14th century clothes

In late 2016, I became involved in the Atlantian Royal Garb group, for people who create garb and accessories for the Crown and Heirs of Atlantia. The Heirs, Signy and Cuan, told us they wanted some 14th century garb. We came up with a plan for a few different garments, including parti-colored garments and matching hoods in azure and argent (blue and white), Atlantia's heraldic colors. 

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I could never have made these without enormous help from Baroness Signy Biarnardottir, whose expertise on fittings, patterns, and 14th century clothing enabled me to put together garments that fit without trying them on the recipients at any point (Their Highnesses lived in a different state). 

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And thus I had the incredible honor of making Signy and Cuan's coronation garb. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get it all done in time, but amazingly it did! Because I'd already worked on the blue silk noil gown for Signy, I had a better idea of how everything needed to come together. 

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I was so excited to be able to use all those fabulous Spike buttons from the AvalonNatural shop on Etsy! They're small but I feel like they had a big impact on the garb overall. (Spike is the Atlantian populace badge, a "unicornate natural seahorse erect azure, finned argent.")

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Update, February 20, 2017: all that remains to be done are the front buttons and hem on Signy's gown and the front buttons, hem, and sleeve buttons on Cuan's cote.

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Update, March 22, 2017: Signy's gown needs 3 more functional buttons and then I will be adding fake/non-functional ones the rest of the way down the front using an awl and cord (much like this method). I believe the only other thing it needs is the hem done. 

Cuan’s cotehardie is the one that will need the bulk of the work done. He will need about 36 buttons and buttonholes. I also have to resew the 4 sleeve buttons (2 on each sleeve) which I sewed before the buttonholes (that was a silly mistake!) and do the hem. 

If by some miracle I have time I will also be completing the matching hoods. 

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Update, March 29, 2017: Both the cotehardie and the gown are finished except for the hems - though I'd like to put about 6 more buttons on the cotehardie; I will have to check and make sure there will be enough for the hoods if so. I will try my darnedest to get the hoods done in time because I think they'd look really good.

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Update, March 31, 2017: Managed to get the hoods and garb completely done in time for Coronation!

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Photo Gallery
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The white linen - about 9 yards

The blue linen - about 8 yards

February 8, 2017: The pins mark the 1 inch intervals where I cut and sew the buttonholes on the sleeves for Signy's gown

February 8, 2017: The pins mark the 1 inch intervals where I cut and sew the buttonholes on the sleeves for Signy's gown

February 28, 2017: Some of the gores aligned perfectly with the hem, some didn't...

February 28, 2017: Some of the gores aligned perfectly with the hem, some didn't...

February 28, 2017: Some of the gores aligned perfectly with the hem, some didn't...

March 20, 2017: You can see the shank of the button from the side. From the bottom half of Signy's gown, I used an awl to create a gap in the linen, through which I pushed the shank of the button, to give the appearance of it buttoning all the way down the front.

March 20, 2017: Closeup of the white sleeve for Signy's gown

March 31, 2017: The sleeves for Cuan's cote

March 31, 2017: The sleeves for Cuan's cote

March 31, 2017: The collar of Cuan's cote

March 31, 2017: The hem of Cuan's cote

March 31, 2017: The inside of the hem of Cuan's cote

March 31, 2017: The inside of the lower half of Signy's gown. You can see where I've tied the buttons with cord to keep them from slipping out, based on the concept at the link below.

March 31, 2017: The point where the functional buttons stop and the fake ones start.

March 31, 2017: Closeup of the hem of Signy's gown

TRH Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Baroness Eadyth Woderose

HRH Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Baroness Eadyth Woderose

TRH Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Master Marcus Vitellius Ursus

TRH Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Maestra Lidia de Ragusa, mka Lydia Leovic Towery

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Maestra Lidia de Ragusa, mka Lydia Leovic Towery

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

HRH Signy at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Maestra Lidia de Ragusa, mka Lydia Leovic Towery

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

HRM Signy at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

HRH Signy at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

HRM Cuan at Spring Coronation 2017 Photo by Lady Machteld Cleine

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Lady Caisséne Ingen Fháeláin

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Llwyd Aldrydd

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Llwyd Aldrydd

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Llwyd Aldrydd

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Llwyd Aldrydd

HRM Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Llwyd Aldrydd

TRM Signy and Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Cuan at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Mistress Cecilia Blythe

HRM Signy at Spring Crown Tournament 2017 Photo by Master Marcus Vitellius Ursus

HRM Signy at Stierbach Baronial Birthday 2017 Photo by Baroness Aemilia Rosa

TRM Signy and Cuan at Pennsic 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

HRM Signy at Pennsic 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Pennsic 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Pennsic 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Pennsic 2017 Photo by Mistress Tannis of Tir-y-Don

TRM Signy and Cuan at Pennsic 2017

Poppet made by Monica R Amende (see link below)

Poppet made by Monica R Amende (see link below)

Poppets made by Monica R Amende (see link below)

Poppet made by Monica R Amende (see link below) Photo by Lady Cecille Cassaire

Scroll made for Countess Signy Heri by Baroness Daniela Schwartzhaupt

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